Ireland's favorite descriptive word applies to its golf and, especially, to its people

"Grand!" Let it roll around your tongue for a moment with just a hint of an Irish brogue (that means a soft "a" - not a deep "grahnd" but with just a touch of lilt to it).

Get used to that sound if you're even thinking of a golfing trip to Ireland because you'll discover that it's an Irish person's favorite word. They use it to describe the weather (unless, of course, it's a "nice, soft day", i.e., pouring down rain). They use it to describe a pint of Guinness in the local pub. They use it to describe the hundreds of golf courses throughout the land.

About the only place the Irish people don't use that word is the most obvious one: to describe themselves. But it's the people that make a trip to Ireland so special, the ultimate reason why visitors return again and again.

Ireland is a study in contrasts. The island is, of course, divided into Northern Ireland (the six northern-most counties) and the Republic of Ireland. Many people think of the Republic of Ireland (hereinafter to be called "Ireland") in terms of geography either east-west or north-south.

In terms of golf, Ireland can also be separated: between old layouts and new, seaside links and inland parkland courses and famous and less well known. But no matter how you describe it, Ireland is grand - especially for golfers.

First-time visitors will, inevitably, gravitate toward the seaside courses that have made Ireland nearly as big a mecca for foreigners as Scotland. They form a ring around the island: (clockwise beginning at Dublin) Portmarnock, Waterville, Tralee, Ballybunion, Lahinch and, in Northern Ireland, Ballyliffin, Royal Portrush and Royal County Down.

What layouts they are! Winding in and out of sand dunes, buffeted by winds that range from quiet zephyrs to howling gales, seaside links courses offer a unique brand of golf that harkens back to the game's origins.

In the past few years, several new courses have been added to the seaside rota, beginning with Tralee (designed by Arnold Palmer) and Waterville, a century-old course on the tip of the Ring of Kerry (Ireland's version of the Pebble Beach 17-Mile Drive) that was rebuilt 20 years ago by a mercurial American named Jack Mulcahy.

The latest addition is Old Head Golf Club, about five miles south of Kinsale on the southern coast. Six different people worked on the design of this unique layout, which is perched on the end of a peninsula in the shadow of the Old Head lighthouse.

They could hardly have missed with the locale. Tees and greens hang off the cliffs and 12 holes run alongside the ocean. There are eight or nine sets of tees per hole, which are used depending on the severity of the wind. It's an eminently walkable course that has 80 full-time caddies; take one - they're worth the price (Euro 30 per bag, plus tip). Also, bring plenty of golf balls; they're also pricey at Old Head, as are the green fees: Euro 250 a round (not including the caddie), about $225 at this article's writing.

For good measure, this year will see the opening of the Greg Norman-designed Doonberg, just across Carrigaholt Bay from Ballybunion. It's reported to be one of the most picturesque - and challenging - of Ireland's links courses.

For return visitors (or those who don't want to pay three-figure prices), there are several don't-miss links courses to play, beginning with Dooks Golf Club on the shores of Dingle Bay between Waterville and Killarney.

More than 100 years old, Dooks was one of the first golf clubs in Ireland. Today its gentle charm mingles perfectly with its links-style design.

Another "unknown" is Galway Bay GC, recently designed by famed Irish golfer Christy O'Connor, Jr. on the shores of Galway Bay. Among other amenities, this club offers gasoline-powered carts. "All Americans use them," says General Manager John Cassidy with a shrug. "We can't hire enough people to be caddies because there isn't enough work for them."

But perhaps the best of the "hidden gem" links courses is Connemara GC, a 27-hole layout far out on the western edge of the windswept and rocky Connemara Peninsula. The three nines offer plenty of beauty and variety and the rock-lined hills are endlessly fascinating.

However, the golfer who visits Ireland and plays only links courses is missing some great bets in Ireland's parkland courses.

The most famous of the these is the Killarney Golf & Fishing Club, which two years ago opened its third course, Lackabane, designed by England's Donald Steele.

With the maturation of Lackabane, Killarney will close down its Killene course in June to rebuild greens and tees to USGA specifications (the third course, Mahoney's Point, will undergo a similar restoration after the 2006 Ryder Cup).

As is the case with the links courses, Ireland has a large number of parkland courses that don't find their way onto the "must play" lists. More's the pity, especially given their inexpensive prices.

One of those is Mullingar, located virtually in the center of the country and designed by James Braid in 1937. A beautiful layout that meanders through stately oak and beech trees, Mullingar is strong enough to have hosted a number of prestigious golf championships.

Whether you play a links course or a parkland layout, there's one sure bet: you'll be greeted with a friendly smile and a caring attitude. Welcoming visitors isn't a business with the Irish; it's a truly grand way of life.